The Eigers North Face. The most famous wall in the Alps. Who hasn't dreamt of climbing through all those historical places – the Hinterstoisser, the traverse of the gods, the white spider? With the necessary preparation, your dream could become a reality.
I (Mano) have climbed the Heckmair route
seven times. As a mountain guide, I was able to lead the camera team for
Mammut's 'Project 360'. It is an incredible space to move through, and I'd be
happy to lead you through it too!
The Heckmair route snakes elegantly through the 1800m high wall, searching out the points of weakness: this results in a total climbing distance of almost 4km! The wall is usually climbed in winter when a good layer of snow and ice makes it a bit easier. Nevertheless, there are always places that are free of snow and these are usually climbed with crampons and ice axes.
You need to:
- have a great deal of experience already gained on long mountain tours.
- easily second UIAA 5 on rock, and WI 4 on ice
- be safe and efficient while walking/climbing in crampons
- have personal experience of mixed climbing and dry tooling
At least one training tour is mandatory to
get to know each other. This has the advantage that you can then train
specifically on any weaknesses. Possible preparation tours include: Mönch
Lauperroute, Breithorn Chervetrippe, Gletscherhorn north face,
Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn traverse. A day of ice climbing/ rock climbing/ dry
tooling is also recommended.
The tour itself
A bivouac on the face is normally to be expected, usually on the Traverse of the Gods. It is also advisable to spend the night at Eigergletscher the evening before the tour, so that we can start early the next morning. If conditions on the face are really good, and your personal fitness is very high, it can even be possible to climb the wall in one long day.
Best time of year
between October and May, when temps are colder and the risk of falling rocks is lower.
Did I spark your interest?
I am happy to answer any questions you might have and to make you a personal offer.
I look forward to preparing you for and accompanying you on this grand tour!